Scottish shortbread
The history of Scottish shortbread is interconnected with the history of dairy farming and butter making in the British Isles during the Medieval Ages:
"As Jean-Louis Flandrin points out, butter consumption is a natural development in regions suitable for cattle-breeding. In such places, popular taste and the local economy had gone right over to butter as a cooking fat within 400 years....Flandrin is speaking about the butter-eating areas of Europe in the fourteenth to seventeenth centuries..."
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat [Barnes & Noble Books:New York] 1992 (p. 121)
[pages 120-124 present the history of butter, including its symbolism]
"Butter was the other principal milk dish [cheese being the other]. The manner of making is had changed little since Pliny's day...In other branches of cookery butter was an enricher, the accompaniment of cheese in herbolaces or with macaroni; of eggs, milk and sugar in the filling for a flathon; of plain or fancy breads in pain perdu or rastons. For short pastry and cakes, it was at first an alternative to fresh cream, but eventually superseded it, for butter had a more highly concentrated fat content, and was more easily stored...Nevertheless butter appeared in a relatively small proportion of the dishes in medieval recipe books, which were written mainly for and by the cooks of the nobility. It was only in Tudor times that an emerging middle class, which did not despise butter as the food of the poor, began to use it liberally in every possible sphere of cookery, setting a trend that was to last for some two hundred years."
---Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson [Academy Chicago:Chicago] 1991 (p. 161-164)[ask your librarian to help you find this book--it is chock full of interesting information.]
This explains why the first shortbread recipes date only back as far as Elizabethan times. This food historian confirms:
"Shortbread...a biscuit whose origin lies in the short cakes made in the 16th century...There are many variations. The thick Pitcaithly bannock has peel and almonds in the mixture..."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 721)
According to these sources, if you want to make Medieval/Elizabethan type shortbread you might want to add some finely ground oats to your recipe. This makes sense given the fact that oats and butter were staple foods of the poorer classes.
"Shortbread...A biscuit (cookie) rich in butter, which is served with tea and its traditionally eaten at Christmas and New Year. Originating from Scotland and traditionally made with oatmeal, it is now made with wheat flour...Shortbread is usually baked in a large round and served cut from the centre into triangles; it is a relic of the ancient New Year cakes that were symbols of the sun."
---Larousse Gastronomique, Jenifer Harvey Lang [Crown Publishers:New York] 1988 (p. 974-5)
"Eaten all the year round but especially at Christmas and the New Year, this delicious cake, which is quite unlike any other, is made from only the finest materials...Originally made with fine oatmeal, it is now made with sifted flour, sometimes with a small proportion of rice flour. On festive occasions it can be decorated with fine strips of orange or lemon peel and small sugared almonds. In the Shetland and Orkney Islands it is call the Bride's Bonn, and has a small proportion...of caraway seeds added. The edges are traditionally "notched" by pinching with the finger and thumb, and this is thought to symbolize the sun's rays, from the early days of sun-worship."
---A Taste of Scotland, Theodora FitzGibbon [Avenel Books:New York] 1979 (p. 117)
What about the origin of the name "shortbread?" According to the Oxford English Dictionary, "Short" (definition 20): Of edible substances: Friable, easily crumbled. This describes the process of making shortbread. This is also where the English term "shortening" comes from. According to John Ayto, the term "shortbread" dates back only as far as the early nineteenth century. [An A-Z of Food and Drink, Oxford University Press:Oxford 2002 (p. 310).] If you want more details, ask your librarian to help you find this article: "Folklore; The Short Story," The Los Angeles Times, October 14, 1998 (p, 2).
RECIPES
[19th century]
Short Bread, Scotch.
No. 1. Mix two pounds of flour with four ounces of moist sugar, two ounces of candied citron, chopped small, and two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and sliced. Rub one pound of butter into the flour, melt another half pound of butter, and with this work up the four to a smooth paste. If a plainer cake is wanted, less butter may be used. Sometimes the whole of the butter is melted, and then the bread is more easily made. Roll out the pastry to the thickness of an inch, and in a large oval shape, pinch the edges evenly, prick the surface with a fork or skewer, and sprin